The vineyards around Lake Annecy are taking root again

The earliest written records of the vineyards around Lake Annecy date back to 1192, suggesting that the vineyards were already sufficiently established to be mentioned in the archives. Menthon-Saint-Bernard appears in 1271 and Talloires in 1290. Officially. However, according to Antoine Duchemin, a historian specialising in Alpine vineyards, the true origins likely date back as far as Roman times.

In the Middle Ages, the lake’s shores produced not merely an everyday wine but a prized nectar favoured by the Counts of Savoy and Geneva, who owned their own vineyards intended to supply their tables. The Benedictine monks of Talloires also cultivated their own plots, whilst the bourgeoisie of Annecy, in turn, invested in the finest hillsides. The wine, sought after for its ageing potential, was then as much a source of wealth as it was a marker of social status.

It was in the 18th century that viticulture reached its peak, with nearly 535 hectares spread across the sunniest slopes.

In Veyrier-du-Lac, more than half of the cultivated land is planted with vines, creating a vibrant landscape that comes to life in spring as pruning work gets underway and forms a chequerboard of shades of green during the summer. The autumn grape harvest mobilises entire villages, and the seasons unfold to the rhythm of this industry, which shapes both the landscape and the local economy.

The lake, for its part, becomes a veritable trade route where small and large boats such as the Comète and the Espérance cross paths… where, today, sailing boats and pleasure craft glide along the water.

“It wasn’t just a vineyard for personal consumption. The wines were sold in Annecy and as far afield as the mountain villages. The lake was the main transport route: transporting the barrels by boat was much easier than along the tracks,” explains Antoine Duchemin.

In the 19th century, wine was everywhere – in every cellar and on every table, on the counters of shops and at village festivals. It was often the main source of income for families, and its value, beyond its economic significance, lay in the prestige it conferred. The reds from Talloires, made primarily from a blend of Mondeuse and Pinot Noir, are renowned for their finesse, whilst the sparkling whites from Clos des Moines inspire writers.

For Antoine Duchemin, viticulture was deeply ingrained in Alpine culture at that time: “Viticulture is important not only economically, but also symbolically. Wine is a prestigious product, reserved for special occasions, weddings, harvests and celebrations. In many villages, it was the main source of income.”

Whilst the disappearance of the vineyards is often linked to the arrival of phylloxera in 1879 on the shores of the lake – which ravaged the vines, as it did throughout Europe – this is not the only explanation: “Phylloxera is never the sole cause of the disappearance of vineyards, as a large proportion of them were able to be replanted,” explains Antoine Duchemin. It was, above all, economic changes that permanently altered the landscape.

With the annexation of Savoy by France and the opening of the railways, wines from the Midi began arriving in vast quantities, transforming the region’s economic structure. Local wines, which were more expensive to produce on these steep slopes, became less competitive, whilst, at the same time, dairy farming became more profitable and the lake’s shores began to attract residential properties, hotels and the first villas. Vineyards gave way to pastures on one side and gardens on the other, and as tourism boomed, more and more land was converted into residential areas.

By the mid-20th century, only a few hectares of cultivated land remained, mainly for family consumption. The traditional expertise gradually disappeared along with the last remaining winegrowers.

A new century, a new era: it was in the early 2010s that Pierre Lachenal, a native of Veyrier-du-Lac and now chairman of the Montagne Vivante endowment fund, conceived a daring project: to replant vines on the hillsides of his village.

Whilst many saw this as nothing more than a pipe dream, he was convinced that history could be rewritten. An association was set up, local residents rallied to fund the first plantings, and the first rows of vines were planted in 2015 in Veyrier-du-Lac.

“People rallied round this idea. Then the project inspired others in Menthon-Saint-Bernard, Talloires-Montmin, and eventually as far as Doussard,” he says enthusiastically.

It’s a wonderful adventure, the stages of which are chronicled in the book “Terres de vignes, 2000 ans d’histoire. La renaissance du vignoble à Veyrier-du-Lac”** by Olivier Labasse.

Without seeking to replicate the past, this new generation of winegrowers aims to reinvent a contemporary vineyard: one committed to organic farming, mindful of the effects of climate change and resolutely focused on quality. To achieve this, they have all chosen a common denominator: Altesse, better known as Roussette.

For Olivier Chéreau, ambassador for the Wines of Savoie, it is something of a flagship for Savoie wines: “Altesse is by far the greatest grape variety in Savoie and probably one of the finest in France”.

Whilst the historic vineyards used to produce mainly red wines made from Mondeuse, the renaissance of the wines of the lake is centred on this iconic and prestigious white grape variety, which creates a shared identity.

For Olivier Chéreau, this is precisely where the main challenge lies: in the idea of rebuilding a genuine local identity: “What began as individual projects has now given rise to a genuine collective energy. And this shared ambition centred on the wines of Lake Annecy must serve as our common DNA.”

This movement now brings together local winegrowers, historians, sommeliers, Michelin-starred chefs and restaurateurs, whose aim is not to produce large volumes but rather to create limited-edition wines that reflect the terroir and symbolise the region.

At the heart of this venture, everyone aspires to generate enthusiasm for the wines of the lake. For Antoine Duchemin, “the finest sign of success would be for the locals to embrace this wine and be able to say with pride that the lake’s vineyards produce a quality wine”, whilst Olivier Chéreau intends to set out on a mission to introduce these wines and their qualities to all local restaurateurs: “We will all have a role to play in this endeavour. The lake’s Michelin-starred restaurants will naturally get on board – and most already have – but everyone in the gastronomic sector must be convinced that their establishments should offer a bottle from the local winemaker.”

Through the Montagne Vivante endowment fund, Pierre Lachenal is driving a comprehensive conservation programme and is passionately committed to safeguarding the future of the mountains in the face of climate and societal change.

To symbolise this commitment and the rediscovery of history, one event serves as both a flagship and a unifying force. Created on his initiative, the Route de l’Altesse will set sail on 5 and 6 September (postponed to 12 and 13 in the event of bad weather).

Over two days, the traditional boats will retrace their historic route between Doussard, Talloires-Montmin, Menthon-Saint-Bernard, Veyrier-du-Lac and Annecy. Just as in days gone by, they will follow the ‘route des tonneaux’, stopping off at the resurgent vineyards to meet winegrowers, historians, sommeliers and all those who are bringing this heritage back to life.

More than just a wine festival, the event tells a rediscovered story: that of a region whose landscapes, cuisine and identity have long been shaped by the vineyard. It is also a way of affirming that heritage is not something frozen in time, but something that is cultivated and passed on… and that, after more than a century of absence, it is quite naturally re-establishing its ties and putting down roots on the slopes of Lake Annecy, revealing a terroir that is, in part, finding its way again.