L’Esquisse

Fourteen years ago Chef Stéphane and his wife Magali decided to settle down at 21 Rue Royale, in downtown Annecy.

With Stéphane in the kitchen and Magali, sommelier, in the dining room, together they built L’Esquisse, a discreet, somewhat hidden spot with just twenty covers, divided between two tables on the ground floor and a small dining room upstairs. The restaurant earned a Michelin star nine years ago, recognition received “without warning,” Chef Stéphane explains.

“We will continue to make an effort to keep it, but have no intention of chasing after additional stars.”

Creativity and simplicity are the guiding principles for both the menu and the décor. The restaurant offers just two set menus: the Surprise, featuring 3, 5, 6, or 10 dishes; and the Expression Gourmande, which includes 3 to 5 dishes. Each day, two desserts conclude the experience with finesse: one centered on chocolate, the other showcasing the fruit in season.

While the chef chooses to exercise a high level of creative freedom and makes meals inspired by the local farmers market, where he resupplies twice per week, certain dishes have remained on the menu since the restaurant opened to avoid triggering a revolt among long-time, loyal diners.

This is the case with the woodland-fragranced potato cappuccino served in a mug, the crispy lamb sweetbread, or the cauliflower purée and braised flat cabbage, served with pickled cauliflower, layered like a vegetable mille-feuille, and topped with a pinch of shredded cauliflower and smoked pike roe.

Originally from the Beaujolais region, Stéphane Dattrino spent time working in Biarritz before moving to Annecy. Through Yoann Conte, he became Laurent Petit’s right-hand man at Le Clos des Sens, where he spent seven years before opening L’Esquisse with Magali.

Two years ago, Chef Stéphane turned towards a more vegetable-based cuisine. Meat au jus and gravies have been replaced with vegetable-based versions, all obtained through reduction and caramelization, to pour over a variety of dishes. His work revolves around an approach that holds the highest respect for vegetables, now the centerpiece for each meal.

“My sauces and gravies contain no meat and are made exclusively with vegetables,” he explains, favoring a more sustainable and vibrant approach to cooking that showcases every part of the vegetable, with nothing left to waste. “I want to work with each vegetable in its entirety.”

For example, a plate of Tarbais beans is garnished with scallions, ginger, fennel, and spices. The garnish is roasted and browned to become part of the sauce. The asparagus is prepared with the same precision: its skin, first boiled in water, is then caramelized and infused with its own broth, which is then used to fully cook the tender core. “A concentration of flavor,” Chef Stéphane affirms. No butter, no cream – the produce “speaks for itself”. Following this logic, meat becomes a garnish, serving to highlight the vegetables and the vegetable-based sauce.

All vegetables are carefully selected at the market, and cheeses come from renowned cheesemakers such as Pierre Gay, “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (Best Artisan in France award), or the Farto Cooperative in Thônes. Chef Stéphane prefers regional cheeses, always prepared, never raw. A fresh tomme cheese transforms into a delectable espuma, accompanied by a watercress granita. A few ground walnuts add crispiness, and wild caraway seeds bring a subtle freshness to the dish.

Keen on gathering wildflowers, Chef Stéphane also enjoys gardening in his spare time, and planted aromatic herbs in a 40 m² plot where more than 200 varieties thrive. Summer savory, thyme, lemon thyme, dill, flat-leaf parsley, hyssop, several types of basil, and even nasturtium: so many distinct aromas tended to with care and cooked fresh in the kitchen. Some, like summer savory, are even transformed into a homemade syrup, which is used in one of the restaurant’s signature aperitifs.

L’Esquisse is a different kind of restaurant: discreet and sincere, where the high standards are reflected in the attention paid to every minute detail. It remains one of Annecy’s best-kept secrets.

This fantastic spot for fine-dining aficionados offers an affordable culinary experience at lunchtime, Tuesday through Friday, with a €55 set menu. What a great way to discover the unique world of Stéphane Dattrino and his wife Magali.